Thanks for your comment.

In order to get the benefit of Green Glue it must be sandwiched between 2 sheets of plasterboard. There is no benefit to using it on studwork but kudos for being creative!

As you are limited on space I suggest applying plasterboard and Green Glue to the inside of the wall – onto the inside face of the existing skin. You’ll need to cut the board into small pieces that fit between your studs and noggins.

You won’t be able to screw through of course as the screws would protrude through into the room, so instead fix a few pieces of batten to the studs that compress you new layer into the existing one. 2″ x 1″ will be fine for this.

Then add your RWA45 75mm (the void will be slightly smaller but it will compress easily) and your single layer of 12.5mm to the other side.

I hope this makes sense – drop me an email if you need a drawing or feel free to call and discuss details.

All the best,

Will

your time & patience answering everybody’s questions is much appreciated.

I’m sound proofing a 75mm stud wall between the bathroom and a bedroom.
1967 build and no insulation at all previously in the wall so anything will be an improvement.

Due to the close proximity of the door & its frame on the adjoining wall plaster board depth is limited to 12.5mm. So resilient bars or 2 x 12.5 mm with GG inbetween is out.

This wall (only) will be painted or papered, not tiled.

This is my plan:
RWA45 75mm between studs.
1 x 12.5 acoustic green pb, edges sealed with acoustic sealer.

***Apply GG to the studs and noggins before fixing the pb.***

I’d appreciate your thoughts.

It takes 30 days to reach maximum performance but this wont affect anything else. You can still complete your plastering and decorating as soon as your plasterboard is up – no need to wait for the Green Glue to dry.

If you are looking for sound reduction then use Rockwool RWA45 – 100mm or more. Celotex is useless for soundproofing – as is polystyrene. We can supply the correct Rockwool if you need it.

I also recommend the use of resilient bars between your beams and plasterboard especially if you want to deal with impact noise (foot fall) and cannot add underlay upstairs.

I hope this helps and if you would like any more detail on how this would work please call me on 01264 810108

Best regards,

Will

We are planning on covering open beams with plasterboards and plastering on a downstairs room ceiling. We want to do this as it’s a 1970′s house and open beams are not a good look – house isn’t old or a cottage!

The same time, we would like to sound proof as the bathroom is above the room with a vinyl flooring, (I’m sure a herd of elephants live there and you can hear all ‘toilet’ sounds – not nice!).

We were planning on using polystyrine or something similar to kingspan or celotex to insulate, placed between the beams, but would a layer of green glue on the underside of one of these products before placing a plasterboard to create a sandwich, work? How long does it take for greenglue to dry – considering we would need to turn it upside down? Thanks for any advice.

You really need more mass (acoustic plasterboard with Green Glue) and some decoupling (Resilient Bars).

Ideally you would remove the top layer of board and refit it on res bars. Then add a second layer with Green Glue.

Have a read of this related article and let me know if I can help you with any more info.

http://www.greenglueshop.co.uk/how-can-i-reduce-noise-i-need-a-sound-proof-room/

Best regards,

Will

If the existing wall is a studwall then add 1 or 2 layers of 15mm acoustic plasterboard with Green Glue directly to the wall and screw them up (into the timber uprights)

There is no need to make a cavity as you already have one in the studwall

Give me a call if you want more detail. 01264 810108

Best regards,

Will

I live in a newly built town homes, very thin walls between other rooms in the house.

I want to reduce noise coming from my younger brother room, next to my room; noise being talking rather than music. There is only one wall that is actually linked to each of our rooms.

My question: if i were to make a cavity wall (sandwich) with Green Glu and stick it on to the original wall (plaster board + stud wall) would this stop the sound coming to my room. We can virtually hear each other speaking.

If yes..How thick would i require the plaster boards to be?

Your advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

BW,
NAS

If you have a solid wall then I strongly recommend you create a cavity like the system described here if you want to see an improvement.

http://www.greenglueshop.co.uk/how-can-i-reduce-noise-i-need-a-sound-proof-room/

Here’s why:

1. The laws of physics dictate that in order to half the amount of sound passing through the wall you need to double the mass. Even multiple layers of plasterboard won’t double the mass of your wall as a solid brick wall is much heavier. Introducing a cavity gets you past this limitation. (This is true whether using Green Glue or not)

2. Also Green Glue is not an adhesive – although it is very stick you still need to use screws. You’ll find it hard to get screws to bite a brick wall without using wall plugs which will make it very difficult to install!

In short I would not recommend it!

Your other questions – if using a proper wall lining system:

1. There is no harm in taking a lining below the floor or just make sure the floor is sealed if you don’t want to lift it. It’s a case of how far you want to go with it.

2. It is generally not necessary to line a chimney breast as it is further from the noise source and is generally built substantially.

Hope this helps, not what you wanted to hear but I wouldn’t want you to waste your money.

Call in if you need to discuss further 01264 810108

Best regards,
Will

I am in a similar situation to Matt but have less of a budget, less skills and less space. I only hear faint voices and muffled TV. They must be able to hear me so I’d like to block as much out as I can.

My plan is to use acoustic plasterboard and green glue it to the solid brick party wall (which has been plastered and painted). Will this do anything?

I live in an old house which has space under the floor boards. Do I need to trim the edges of the floor boards and go as low as I can, or could I just go to the current floor and apply sealant.

Also, the party wall has a chimney breast (with an in-use real fire). I think it’d be too tricky to cover this, is it necessary? I could cover the sides that lead into the alcoves, or is this pointless?

Thanks,
Matt