So how is Green Glue applied?

This page should give you all the info you need on installing Green Glue. If you still have any questions please contact us right away for an answer.

Where is Green Glue used?

Green Glue can be used to soundproof walls, floors and ceilings. It is used in new construction, building upgrades and renovations.

Since Green Glue is intended to be sandwiched between two sheets of building materials such as plasterboard, it eliminates the need to remove existing wall and floor materials.

Installing Green Glue is fast

• Use a standard quart size caulk gun
• Because of its thin consistency (like ketchup), you can easily dispense a tube of Green Glue in 15 seconds
• Green Glue will not flow off a board when installing
• No specific coverage pattern is necessary to ensure excellent results
• No measuring or troweling
• A larger tip opening (10mm opening) can be used to speed application without concern for performance

Green Glue is sticky

There is nothing harmful about Green Glue, but it is important to warn your installers that it can be tough to clean up, especially after it has dried. Take precautions such as drop cloths and latex gloves when using Green Glue. Take care to remove the Green Glue from unwanted surfaces before it dries. Washing up liquid and warm water can be used to clean up wet Green Glue.

Green Glue smell

Green Glue is not odorless. In the same way that you can smell paint while you are painting a room, you will be able to smell Green Glue as you are applying it. Most installers aren’t bothered by the smell, but it is nevertheless important to keep the room well ventilated to prevent a build up of smell. Cold temperatures or high humidity will slow drying. Smell will not linger on furniture, clothing or carpeting. Like paint, once dry, the smell will fade. Keep the spent tubes in a plastic bag and remove them regularly.

Hanging the first layer of plasterboard

After hanging the first layer of plasterboard, it is recommended that you seal the seams between sheets. This can be done with either caulk or jointing compound. If using caulk, take care not to use a bead so large that it protrudes outside the plane of the plasterboard, preventing the second layer from sitting flat (below). If speed is an issue, you can omit this step and seal the perimeter after the last sheet of plasterboard is installed. Do so at your own risk, however, as a small gap can have a big effect on the sound reduction you achieve.

Correct - The caulking bead applied to the plasterboard seam is below the plane of the wall.

Incorrect - The caulking extends beyond the plane of the wall. This will prevent the next layer of plasterboard from contacting the first layer lowering your performance.

Correct - A quick layer of setting jointing compound is applied below the plane of the wall. This method also increases the area of contact between layers.

Incorrect - Avoid these types of protruding caulk beads, and random spills/smears/drips of compound that extend past the plane of the first layer.

If you mud the first plasterboard layer make the first layer flat, smooth and free of protruding bits of mud, caulk, or fractures in the plasterboard that might prevent the second layer of plasterboard from sitting flat against the first. Filling seams smooth with jointing compound can increase overall contact area and may slightly improve performance over caulk alone.

Yes – Uniform coverage gives desired performance.

Yes – Leaving 20% of the area uncovered while still using the same amount of Green Glue (1-3 tubes) will result in a marginally thicker film when the two sheets are compressed together. This will slightly improve low frequency behavior at the slight expense to your higher frequency performance (The difference is small).